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2012-01-03

_ 伊豆大島一日観光

朝はおせち料理とお雑煮(鮭+いくら+里芋?+アシタバ?に焼いた角餅の白味噌仕立て)をいただき,オーナーに三原山山頂口まで車で送っていただき,まずは火口付近をハイキング.

三原山の最近の大噴火は1986年のことで,もちろんその痕跡は溶岩流などの形でくっきりと残っていた.ぽっかり口を開けた噴火口がいくつかあり,所々から白い煙があがっている.しかしそれらは水蒸気で,有毒な火山ガスは最近は噴出していないそうだ.もちろん活発な噴火活動当時は全島避難などかなり大変だったようだが,幸いにも死者は出ず,住民たちの避難生活で1ヶ月ですみ,またオーナーの言によればまだ日本に天災が頻発する前だったこともあって,住民に対する金銭的なケアも比較的手厚かったそうだ.また,もっと古くは「もく星号」が墜落したのも三原山なのだそうだが,その現場のある砂漠地帯には足を踏み入れなかった.また,映画「ゴジラ」とのゆかりも深いらしいが,こちらもよく知らない.朝から曇りがちで富士山などの残念ながら眺望はきかなかったが,利島・式根島・新島・神津島はよく見えて,また遠くには三宅島もうっすらとだがその姿を確認できた.東京方面ではスカイツリーも見えるのだそうだが,こちらは「ひょっとしてこれがそうかもしれない」ものはかろうじて見えた,つもりになった.

12時頃に山頂口に戻ってきて,ちょうど客待ちをしていたタクシーに乗って元町港へ.お昼のお勧めの店は?と聞いたり午後の行動についてアドバイスを受けたり,貸切タクシーで観光しないかというセールスを緩やかに受け流したりしつつ山を下りた.昼食はお勧めのうちのお店の1つ「寿司光」にて島名物の「べっこう」などを賞味した. 当初はレンタサイクルをしてサイクリングをするつもりだったのだが,島一周はアップダウンが激しくお勧めしないとのタクシーの運ちゃん談だったので,レンタカー屋に電話して軽を借りることにした.電話1本で港まで車を持って来てくれてその場で手続き→返却はホテルに置いておけば取りに来てくれる,という小さな島ならではのお手軽さでよかった.乳が崎(海べりを歩いていたら思いっきり波を浴びて下半身びしょ濡れにw)→大島公園(椿はまだ咲き初めという感じ)→筆島(まだしも上品なネーミングでよかった)→波浮港(伊豆の踊子を読んだことがないので…)→地層切断面(バームクーヘン状態の地層が夕日に照らされてきれいだった)と巡り,16時過ぎにホテル着.効率的に島を回れてよかった.

今日は宿泊がわれわれ一組だけのようで,お風呂も独占.夕食も伊勢エビのブイヤベースをメインに和洋折衷+地の食材をふんだんに使った料理をおいしくいただいた.昨夜はワインで酔っ払ったので部屋に戻ってすぐに寝てしまったので,今日は控えめにして23時頃までリビングでのんびり過ごした.

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