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2007-08-17

_ 廣岡先生のこと

愛知淑徳大学・斎藤和志先生がブログ・世間流宮別館でさまざまなエピソードを書いておられることを知る.切れ切れに聞いていたエピソードが少しだけつながって理解できた気がした.だからと言って何が変わるというわけではないのだけれど.

_ [07travel] 霧の朝

ぐっすり休んで6時半起床.残念ながら湖には霧が立ち,周囲の山々も霞んでいる.そして寒い.おそらく日本の1/3程度の気温しかないものと思われる.さすがに今朝は湖を泳ぐ人はいなさそうだ.しかし滞在中にとてもいい天気も体験できたのだからよしということにしよう.今日はザルツブルグに移動し,夜はザルツブルグ音楽祭に出演するバイエルン放響@ヤンソンスを鑑賞する予定だ.しかしホテルのチェックインまでにかなりの時間があるので,何かアクティビティを入れたいが,この天候では,さてさて…

朝食(今日は巨大オムレツと戦うのをやめ,おとなしく目玉2個のフライドエッグにした)後,チェックアウト11時のぎりぎりまでホテルに滞在.ホテルの周囲はほとんど不気味なまでに静かである.天候に無関係にせかせかと観光地を回らざるを得ないツアー客以外は,静かな朝を過ごしているのだろう.うらやましいことだ.

_ [07travel] ところで

旅行中にユーロがダダ下がりしてますなあ.

欧州滞在中,という一面的に見るとこれ以上いいことはありません.しかし案外カードが使えないところが多いんですねえこれが.

ちっとも行くつもりのなかったザルツブルグ某所に行こうかという気がむくむくと…(笑

_ [07travel] ザルツブルグ着

基本的に雨.ザンクトギルゲンとフシュルを経由して,フシュルでは一瞬明るくなったので湖の写真を撮り,ベンチに座っておにぎりを食べるも,また雨になったので退散.

ザルツブルグまで戻ったものの,まだホテルのチェックインまで時間があるので通り越して近郊のAnifまで行ってカラヤンのお墓参りをした.幸い,このサイトを保存して行ったので,教会を探すのにやや手間取ったものの,たどり着いてからはまったく迷わずお墓を見つけることができた.教会の手前の通りはヘルベルト・フォン・カラヤン通りといい,カラヤンの生家邸宅(生家はザルツブルグにあった)があるわけだが,どうやら後で調べてみるとムーティさんのおうち(多分生家だろうが…なわけないか.イタリア人だもんな.っていうことは住んでる???→別荘らしい)もあったようだ.

_ [07travel] 街巡り

新市街ミラベル庭園そばのCrowne Plazaにチェックイン.まあ味気のない普通のホテルだが仕方がない.そもそもこの音楽祭の時期にザルツブルグに1泊しかしないという行為自体が味気ないため,普通によいホテルは泊まらせてくれないのである.

まだ小雨模様だが,コンサートまでまだ随分時間があるので周辺の町歩きに.去年は旧市街に泊まり,新市街は車で通っただけだったので,今日は新市街のミラベル庭園をうろうろ.しかし周囲の風景を入れ込んだ写真を撮るには天気が悪すぎる.というわけで花を中心に.その後は旧市街に行き,後でまた来る祝祭劇場近辺とゲトライトガッセ(目抜き通り)を散策.ゲトライトガッセ最奥,ヴィトンの前あたりに K&K&k 一家が音楽祭期間中に滞在しているアパートがあり,「おお,ここにキティがいるのか〜」と思いながら,階下のアイスクリームやで,おすすめのバタークッキーとMohnフレーバーのアイスを食べた.Mohnは私の食べる限りココナッツの味がした.その後は適当に見つけた民族衣装の店で,ご母君お言いつけの木綿のハンカチーフを購入.ちなみに「ハンカチーフはあるか」と聞いたら通じず,ご夫君のそれを見せて納得してもらった.何と言えばよかったのだろうか.

クラシックのCDが欲しいと思い,うろうろするが祝祭劇場のショップとゲトライトガッセの楽器店にほんのちょっぴり置いてある以外は見つからず.ネットで探索してもあまりめぼしい情報は見つからない.ここは「音楽はライブで」が基本の街なのだろうか.音楽祭期間中くらい特設で店を出せば,儲かりそうなものなのになあ…

一旦ホテルに戻って着替え,再び19時過ぎに出かける.祝祭劇場に行く前に腹ごしらえを,というわけで新市街ホテルザッハー近くのロジにあるHappy Chineseへ.中国人や日本人の旅行者が多くいた.白菜とキクラゲの炒め物と野菜チャーハンを食する.やっぱり中華は安心できる味がする.ここは小澤征爾ごひいきのお店だそうで,廊下に写真パネルが飾られていた.

_ [07travel] ザルツブルグ音楽祭 the 2nd

去年に引き続き今年もザルツブルグ音楽祭を聴きに行く.去年はウィーンフィル@ムーティでマチネだったが,今年はゲストオーケストラのバイエルン放響@ヤンソンスでソワレである.席は前よりもよいセンターの前から4列目.曲目はオネゲルの交響曲第3番「典礼風」とベートーヴェンの交響曲第9番「合唱付」の2曲.オペラではないがソワレだし,ものすごくみんな盛装していたらどうしよう,と思ったのだが,幸い私たちの風体(ご夫君は夏用のブラックスーツ,私はワンピースに麻のジャケット)でも浮くようなことはなかった.

オネゲルはまったく予習なしで行ったのだが,現代風な曲想の中にも深みのある表現満載で気に入った.ヤンソンスがコンセルトヘボウと録音しているようなのでまた入手しようと思う.ちなみに,この曲は61年前の今日が初演(チューリッヒにて,指揮ミンシュ)だったという縁もあって選ばれたようだった.

第九はまあお馴染みの,という感じではあったが,やはりヤンソンスらしい重厚かつ壮麗な表現で聴かせてくれた.特に合唱団がよく頑張っていた.というか,実はライブで「ドイツ人がドイツ語で歌う」第九を聴いたのは初めてなのだが,彼らにしてみれば(当たり前だが)ネイティブの言語で歌っているわけで,日本人がある意味「口まね」で歌うのとは表現力が違うというのを実感した.また,ソロバリトンのThomas Quasthoffという人を私は寡聞にして知らなかったのだが,サリドマイド障害を持っていて,手は肩からすぐのところについていて指は欠損しているし,足もとても短い.それでも大変素晴らしい声量の歌を聴かせてくれて,正直とても驚いた.声楽という,まさに体全体を使う行為をあの体で成し遂げるというのは,すごいことだと思う.

このコンビに次お目にかかるのは,この11月,大阪である.チェロの首席がとてもかっこよかった(コンサートがはねた後,ふつーに私服で祝祭劇場から出てきたのを見るとものすごくその辺のおにーちゃんになっていたのがまたよかった)ので,是非来日してもらいたいものだ.しばらく出待ちをし,ほとんどのオケメンバーとソリストたちを見送るも,遂にマリスを待ちきれず日付が変わってしまったのでホテルに戻った.

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